KENNEDY MAGAZINE

Kennedy Magazine – a Biannual Journal of uriosities

Here at last is the inaugural issue of Kennedy Magazine – a Biannual Journal of uriosities. Brought to the world by the brilliant minds of Mr. Chris Kontos and the late Mr. Angelo Pandelidis, it’s a voyage through the subjects of art, music, fashion, and culture delivered in a beautifully compact, travel friendly format. Features include interviews with artists Olaf Breuning, and Edwin Wurm, musicians Andrew Weatherall, and Eddie Ruscha, and film director Whit Stillman as well as style counselling from Trunk Clothiers London, and yours truly. It’s also beautifully designed with stunning photography throughout.

I feel very proud to have been involved in this wonderful project and that pride was only intensified after the recent news of joint Editor-in-Chief Angelo Pandelidis’ sudden and tragic death. Together with Chris he has created a truly special magazine that will resonate with many people. I only hope that this is just the beginning for Kennedy and that Angelo has helped lay the foundations for a long standing and continually entertaining publication.

I’d love to reveal more, but I’d like you to go out and purchase a copy to pore over and enjoy.  Please visit kennedymagazine.com to find your stockist or purchase online, or alternatively (for UK folks only) purchase a copy over at noncollective.com.

Kennedy Magazine
Buy a copy of Kennedy Magazine to find out how I smash two of my favourite topics (Seinfeld and Engineered Garments) into one article.

SECTION SEWN: VINTAGE MENSWEAR

Vintage Menswear: A Collection from The Vintage Showroom by Douglas Gunn & Roy Luckett

Curated by Douglas Gunn and Roy Luckett, proprietors of Seven Dials’ Vintage Showroom, this book is an essential purchase for any vintage #menswear and outerwear enthusiast. The book collates an impressive collection of early to mid-twentieth century garb divided into three sections: Sports & Leisure, Military, and Workwear.

There are some amazing pieces here to peruse and they’re all taken from the authors’ vast archive of vintage garments situated in their Notting Hill and Covent Garden showrooms. The pair started the Vintage Showroom in 2007 and it now provides an indispensable resource for fashion designers, stylists, and other creative teams.

RAF Mountain Rescue Service Cold Weather Parka
Globe Manufacturing Fireman’s Jacket
Indian Army Paratrooper’s Smock

Any Cabourn enthusiasts will spot many garments here referenced by Nigel (some faithfully reproduced). Snow smocks, RAF Parkas, and Fireman coats are all here and even the inspiration behind Nigel’s Viberg ‘Arrow’ boots gets a fascinating spread which details the meaning of the arrow (an icon used to denote ‘Government Property’).

Broad Arrow Prisoner’s Trousers and Boots

Belstaff Trailmaster Motorcycle Jacket
Detail from a Bespoke Tweed Jacket and Waistcoat
Handmade Peasant’s Boro Jacket. I particularly liked this as it reminded me of the kind of fabric Post O’alls often use.

Every item featured is outlined and detailed and most feature a brief historical background and raison d’être. It’s the visual reference that’s the main draw though. Every garment is lovingly documented with nice large imagery to pore over and examine. A highly recommended read.

SECTION SEWN: ALASTAIR MORTON & EDINBURGH WEAVERS

Alastair Morton & Edinburgh Weavers by Lesley Jackson

Here are three books I’ve been enjoying over the last few weeks and I wanted to share with you. The first is Alastair Morton & Edinburgh Weavers by Lesley Jackson, a book I spotted not long ago in Margaret Howell’s Wigmore St Store (but purchased at a realistic price from Amazon).

The book is a huge retrospective of the Edinburgh Weavers iconic textiles work drawing mainly from the V&A’s extensive archive and it features a vast collection of Alastair Morton’s artworks and textile designs as well as work from the artists he commissioned as Edinburgh Weavers art director including; Lucienne Day, Barbara Hepworth, Elisabeth Frink, and Ben Nicholson to name but a few.

 

SECTION SEWN: MARGARET HOWELL HOUSES

Margaret Howell Houses

As the wife and I are hopefully going to be purchasing our first flat very soon, I’ve become obsessed with interiors again and my first port of call for inspiration was Margaret Howell Houses. I’ve seen it around for a while, but only recently had the impetus to buy it from eBay due to my changing circumstances and the opportunity to put some of the inspiration in to practise.

Eames, Vitsoe, and Alvar Aalto are recurring themes throughout, but all work perfectly amongst the many different settings Margaret finds herself in. I was surprised how far back some of these photos go, with some of the shots having been taken in the mid nineties. As you’d expect, everything in here is completely timeless (apart from Margaret’s jeans) and a great guide for how to put together an interior that’s homely and understated yet full of personality. When I get in to my new flat I’m gonna parquet like it’s 1999.

SECTION SEWN: ICONS OF MEN’S STYLE

Icons of Men’s Style by Josh Sims

Icons of Men’s Style takes a look at some of the iconic menswear garments, footwear, and accessories of the twentieth century and offers a good overview and history of each piece as well as looking at some of the well known faces who brought many of the items to the public eye. It merely skims the surface of many of the garment’s histories and functions, but it’s nice to see a book that brings so much of this casual and formal wear to one place. Everything from the Duffle Coat to the Hawaiin shirt is covered here. It’s also filled with lots of great vintage adverts for many of the featured brands.

1st, PAPER

Leather bound, gilt edged notebook from Assouline.

Top gifting from the wife for our 1st (Paper) wedding anniversary. The beautiful notebook above is from the classic French publisher Assouline and will be receiving all my notes and drafts for my future S&S posts.

The gilt edge of the Assouline notebook alongside their nicely considered gift wrapping.

She also managed to get hold of the hard to find (in the UK at least) Dean & Deluca cook book. Dean & Deluca is always our first stop when visiting New York (our favourite city and the place of our engagement). Can’t wait to get cooking.

The Dean & Deluca Cookbook
I’ll be starting with the Monkfish…
Now, about the type…

THE FABRIC, FOOD & FACE OF SCOTLAND

Nigel Cabourn 1940’s Harris Tweed DB Jacket, Barbour Newmarket Plaid Lambswool Scarf, and The Face of Scotland by Harry Batsford and Charles Fry.

Autumn finally showed up last week during a short trip to N.Y. (North Yorkshire) and what better way to greet it than with a selection of Scottish fabrics. Adding to the Harris Tweed jacket I already had on, I picked up a really nice Barbour scarf in their blue Newmarket Plaid. I picked mine up from Orvis in Harrogate, but the scarf is also available from Oi Polloi at a very reasonable £25. The scarves are made in Scotland and are finely produced in a very soft Lambswool. I have another one in white from a few seasons back and it’s holding up really well with very little pilling after much use.

Barbour scarf in blue Newmarket plaid from Oi Polloi.

Adding to the Scottish theme of the trip was a book I picked up in Helmsley Antiquarian & Secondhand Bookstore called The Face of Scotland by Harry Batsford and Charles Fry. The stunning cover illustration is by classic British landscape artist Brian Cook who’s iconic work defined an era of travel across the UK from the 30′s through to the 50′s with his book jacket illustrations and railway posters. The cover is printed with a five colour letterpress process using water based inks and hand cut rubber plates. Intensified by Cook’s imagination the vivid illustration captures perfectly some of the amazing colours you actually see in the Scottish countryside.

The Face of Scotland by Harry Batsford and Charles Fry.
The stunning colourful cover illustration by Brian Cook.

The finishing Scottish touch to the break was a spiced pork Scotch egg (ok, not actually Scottish) at the Star Inn in Harome near Helmsley. Served up with two huge pieces of crackling on a bed of spiced apple sauce, Black Pudding bread, and costing a mere £6, it was the perfect end to a great couple of days away. I’m going to write more about The Star Inn soon, but in the meantime, here’s a snap of the most amazing Scotch Egg I’ve ever eaten.

Scotch Egg at The Star Inn, Harome (those are raisins in the pork meat!).
The Star Inn, Harome.

A MAN WALKS IN TO A BOOTMAKERS…

The Last Shall Be First: The Colourful Story of John Lobb

I was walking past John Lobb the other week and I noticed they had shoes displayed on top of copies of a monograph entitled ‘The Last Shall Be First: The Colourful Story of John Lobb’.

I purchased a copy from Amazon, but have yet to start reading it (and as my reading habits go, expect a review in 2015). In the meantime I thought I’d share this image of the back cover which I thought was a clever and unusual introduction to the book.

There’s also a decent review of the book on Permanent Style from 2009 if you can’t hold on till 2015.

KEMPER C. BOYD

American Tabloid by James Ellroy

This quote from James Ellroy’s American Tabloid tickled me the other day. Pretty sure I’ve had the same conversation with my boss.