Mont Bell

Mont-BellMy attention has recently been drawn to lightweight, technical outdoor Japanese brand Mont Bell. The brand was founded by climber Isarmu Tatsura in 1975 and they produce garments that focus on an incredible warmth-to-weight ratio. New menswear label and store Several have a small selection available and I’m particularly interested in the UL Down Tee which will make for a great layering piece in winter, especially with something like an E.G. wool Bedford jacket over the top. The tee is made from ballistic nylon ripstop which is lighter and stronger than your usual nylon. Perfect for those gruelling weather conditions of central London.

Mont-Bell

Mont-Bell

Engineered Garment’s Daiki Suzuki sporting the Mont Bell UL Down Tee
Engineered Garment’s Daiki Suzuki sporting the Mont Bell UL Down Tee

E.G. SPECIAL PART FOUR: EVERYDAY SHIRT

Everyday shirt

Earlier this year The Bureau got a good update of E.G. Workaday stuff in, with a couple of new styles added to the offering. I made a few purchases from the selection; the Lafayette shirt, the Everyday shirt, and the crossing crew tee, which for the most part has been my uniform all summer. The Everyday shirt, pictured above, has become one of my favourite E.G. shirts. It’s a stripped back version of the mainline Workshirt, with simple chest pockets rather than the mismatched button pockets of the original. The indigo denim is washing really well and has started to get a nice fade on it. I’m also looking forward to picking up some of the more colourful chambray versions on offer sometime in the future.

E.G. SPECIAL PART THREE: BAL COAT

 

Bal coat

What happens when Bet Lynch meets Travis Bickle? The answer? This season’s Engineered Garments Bal Coat. Ain’t it something? Sadly this version is Japan only, but the Bureau are carrying a nice selection of more wearable options over here.

The Bal coat has easily been my favourite E.G. piece over the last couple of seasons. It’s a super versatile coat with a relaxed silhouette thanks to the raglan sleeves. I also love that the Spring / Summer version is quite a different option, presented in more modern fabrics and heavier on the details with a detachable hood, asymmetric collar, and hand warmer pockets. The winter version, seen here, is a seemingly simpler garment, but it is infact reversible, often offering a more eccentric alternative to a sober counterpart.

Bal coat

Bal coat

Bal coat

 

E.G. SPECIAL PART TWO: FW JACKET COLLECTION

Andover Jacket 14w Corduroy
Andover Jacket 14w Corduroy

There’s a good overview of the FW jackets from Engineered Garments over at nepenthes.co.jp. Nice to see a focus on one particular type of garment. Re-presented here for viewing ease (the nepenthes site is quite slow).

Andover Jacket Antique HB
Andover Jacket Antique HB
Andover Jacket Worsted Wool Flannel
Andover Jacket Worsted Wool Flannel
B2B Jacket Uniform Serge
B2B Jacket Uniform Serge
Bedford Jacket Cavalry Twill
Bedford Jacket Cavalry Twill
Beford Jacket Moleskin
Beford Jacket Moleskin
Coverall Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen Navy
Coverall Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen Navy
overall Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen
Coverall Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen
CPO Shirt 20oz Melton
CPO Shirt 20oz Melton
M-41 Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen Navy
M-41 Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen Navy
M-41 Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen
M-41 Jacket Nyco Reversed Sateen
Suffolk Jacket 13oz Wool HB
Suffolk Jacket 13oz Wool HB

E.G. SPECIAL PART ONE: FW 2014 RECAP

It’s still 20ºC here in the UK, but thoughts are slowly turning to autumnal gear. As a lot of the new E.G. season is now in the shops, it seems a good time to recap on the FW looks of 2014. It’s a quintessential Daiki collection, that reminds me of his more trad work with WWM – largely due to the overall ‘chunkiness’ of it. Lots of heavy knits and woollens going on this season. While I think its a great selection, I feel it’s lacking a little modernity this time around. I enjoy the more ‘technical’ garments that Daiki often plays with – notably the Down body vest from a few seasons back – that are often challenging, but very wearable. This season sees the introduction of the Combi vest, which I really like, but would like to have seen it delivered in a more modern palette rather than the classic mixes that are currently presented. Here’s a selection of my favourite looks from the book up on Nepenthes.co.jp.

Look 1

Look 2

Look 3

Look 4

Look 5

ORSLOW

Type 1 Blouson
Type 1 Blouson

I’ve been quietly enjoying the development of orSlow over the past few seasons and it has been nice to see a few UK stores offer a more rounded collection this season. The Bureau Belfast bagged some of the strongest pieces with the Type 1 Blouson, Climbing Pants, and check scarves being particularly noteworthy.  The quality of the fabrics, unusual vintage shapes, and beautiful details are really setting the brand apart from other offers at the moment.

Type 1 Blouson

Indigo/Blue Check Scarf
Indigo/Blue Check Scarf

Scarf

Jeans

 

MANUFACTUM

Viberg Shell Cordovan Boot
Viberg Shell Cordovan Boot

It’s been a while since I’ve felt compelled to write about anything for a while. I very recently started my own business which has caused the blog to take a bit of a backseat. But when I stumbled across this website the other day, I couldn’t resist a post. Quite simply, this site – Manufactum – is one of the best curated sites I’ve ever clicked upon. With it’s mix of household utility products, toys, luggage, and tightly curated clothing ranges you could liken it to London’s Labour & Wait, but minus the wistful English charm and rugged clunkiness of some of the products. Slowdownjoe could be considered a cooler cousin, but it doesn’t have the depth and range of product that Manufactum offers. Here’s a selection of just a few things that caught my eye on my journey through. I think my Christmas list just quadrupled.

Viberg Shell Cordovan Boot details
Viberg Shell Cordovan Boot details
ATOMA Loose leaf binders
ATOMA Loose leaf binders
Folding travel bag
Folding travel bag
Dinkelacker lace-up ankle boot
Dinkelacker lace-up ankle boot
Dinkelacker lace-up ankle boot detail
Dinkelacker lace-up ankle boot detail
Clockwise from top left: Forged steel curtain set, Archive box set, Japanese plant knife, Magnetic paper clamps
Clockwise from top left: Forged steel curtain set, Archive box set, Japanese plant knife, Magnetic paper clamps
Nigel Cabourn Cameraman Jacket
Nigel Cabourn Cameraman Jacket
Nigel Cabourn Cameraman Jacket detail
Nigel Cabourn Cameraman Jacket detail

WINTER FRUITS

Engineered Garments 19th Century BD Shirt, Pineapple Chambray
Engineered Garments 19th Century BD Shirt, Pineapple Chambray

It’s so long since my last post, I’d almost forgotten how to use WordPress. It’s been a tumultuous few months for me which will culminate in something exciting very soon, but has meant clothing has been on the back burner for a while. Well, on the back burner until I saw this bobby dazzler of a shirt appear on Oi Polloi which has forced me out of my summer hibernation.

Daiki Suzuki continues his playful twists on preconceived seasonal patterns by adding some tropical fruit to this Fall/Winter’s proceedings. This is a truly special embroidered pattern and it finds it’s home on (in my opinion) Daiki’s finest hour: the 19th Century BD Shirt. He often uses this style as a playground to experiment with fabric and it’s good to see this coming FW13 season is no exception. And for those interested in the 19th Century shirt, I’ve written a piece about it in the newly launched Kennedy Magazine. Hit the link for stockist information.

Pineapple Chambray

S.E.H KELLY – MADE IN THE BRITISH ISLES

S.E.H Kelly HQ

On a crisp Thursday evening a (good) few weeks ago, I paid a long overdue visit to S.E.H Kelly’s Boundary St HQ. I was welcomed into a warm and cosy studio-cum-showroom complete with cosy lighting and some soothing jazz that perfectly matched the mood of the evening. Paul (one of the two partners) took the time to take me through the Autumn Winter 13 collection they were about to send off to Japan, while Sara (the other partner and the brand’s namesake) worked away upstairs on the mezzanine floor above.

Their studio is situated in Cleve Workshops; East London’s sort-of answer to a Mews terrace, albeit a lot more (charmingly) ramshackle.

If you asked me why it’s taken so long to write something proper about S.E.H Kelly here, I couldn’t tell you. I’ve been a big fan of their brand for some time, but for one reason or another I’ve never gotten around to checking out their clothing in person. Laziness plays a big part in that, but mainly because I’ve got stuck in my ways over the past few years and edited my clothing choices down to the offers of a handful of brands. It’s hard for a new brand to enter the stable as I get older as there are so many boxes I need to see ticked to kindle my interest. With age comes particularity!

Attention is first caught by an excellent product; a garment designed with a solid point of view and vision. A fetishistic love of detail is also a must. The cut needs to be spot on; classic and unaffected by trend; fitted, but comfortable. Materials need to be chosen with an inventive, but careful eye. A point of difference is great, but it needs to suit the garment seamlessly. Manufacturing should be of an exceptional standard; crafted with skill, experience and integrity. Where patterns are painstakingly cut, but corners not at all. Once that’s all in place the rest should follow: a great story, a solid and consistent voice, and a great visual stance; none of which are simple to achieve in their own right.

Autumn Winter ’13 garments

Production
To satisfy all the above criteria would be to describe the output of S.E.H Kelly. Their garments have been quietly building up a fan base over the last few years with dedicated customers looking for a superior product from an outsider brand. Keeping a low profile in the UK and selling purely through their own showroom and online store has allowed them to a keep a Kung-Fu grip on production, keeping it small, but to an exceptional high quality. Sara and Paul hold these relationships with factories and producers close as its the key ingredient to creating the garments to the standard they demand. Factories also provide a collaborative role, providing crucial advice about production (“don’t use stitched eyelets, they’re rubbish; use metal ones!”) and years of experience from the makers gives great insight into the accurate use and function of many pockets and details (“that hand warmer pocket isn’t too shallow, it’s not for hands; it’s where you keep your cigs!”).

Details from various garments including the subtly quilted blazer from AW13 and the beautifully sized A4 pocket on this season’s reversible linen over-shirt

To find the right partner and being able to lean on their expertise is key to many successful creative partnerships. It’s telling that Sara used the word ‘family’ a number of times when talking about the factories as she spends as much of her time there as she does at the studio.

The production of garments is kept loosely seasonal, but many items arrive as and when. It’s clear the guys believe in garments that can be worn year round as new outerwear items are starting to feature Melton wool detachable liners that can be removed in warmer months or swapped with cotton liners.

Contentment in pricing
Playing by their own rules and sticking to the aforementioned points means that the pricing of the garments is also honest and fair. Their mac which is made from the magical, but notoriously expensive material Ventile is a good example of this. Ventile is a natural cotton cloth made from extra long fibres that’s difficult and time consuming to manufacture, but has incredible water repellency. It’s a natural cloth so it’s breathable, but it’s also warm, and incredibly comfortable with a soft hand. Their Ventile mac retails at a very reasonable £350. Expect that price to be £500+ were it any other brand operating with typical overheads and fighting against wholesale prices.

S.E.H Kelly also stand by their pricing year round; a rare and unexpected quality in today’s market place. If garments are offered at a fair price all year round then they don’t need to enter sales. If customers understand this, they feel comfortable paying a good price for a good garment and won’t hesitate to purchase worrying that the item may appear on sale next week; a mentality that is spreading through consumers these days as a side effect of menswear stores offering countless flash sales, mid season sales, free shipping etc.

Japan
Aside from the UK market S.E.H Kelly has been picked up by a clutch of key stores in Japan including Beams, Nanamica, etc. The Japanese menswear market has a feverishly nerdy interest in Britain and the hunger for quality is most certainly satisfied by S.E.H Kelly’s clothing. The level of careful curation those stores have and the close scrutiny that garments under go in that menswear sphere is intense, so it’s testament to S.E.H Kelly that their clothes have been selected and are out there flying the flag for British style, design, and manufacturing.

Warmer pockets in the upcoming Tour Jacket

Details
A key characteristic of S.E.H Kelly’s approach is details. Many of the garments are misleadingly simple on first appearance, but most are loaded with details – from construction to functional intricacies. Take their new Tour Jacket for example; a garment I feel epitomises their approach. It’s a seemingly simple and stylish jacket designed for cycling. The jacket is made from Ventile, so it’s waterproof, breathable and comfortable. Use of corduroy adds texture to the collar. Vents at the shoulders add movement and flexibility in the arms – a detail borrowed from hunting jackets.

The adhoc backpack strap featured on the inside of the cycling jacket

It features warmer pockets, inside pockets, and cable loops to keep headphone wires in check. But the defining detail is a special strap that buttons internally just under the inside of the arms and over the coat loop, creating two carry straps to place your arms through. This allows the jacket to be shrugged off whilst riding and worn as an impromptu ‘backpack’. This level of innovation and practicality, but balanced through a traditional approach and execution, defines their approach throughout the collections. I’ve always been sceptical about ‘phone pockets’ and ‘cable loops’, but seeing the S.E.H Kelly approach has really changed my feelings about such things. Clothes have always been designed to deal with the practicalities of life at the time; from cigarette pockets to ticket pockets, so adding features to deal with modern items isn’t betraying tradition, but rather carrying on the same approach. Working it all up in fine and natural cloths helps keep it all rooted in class.

Deadstock Corduroy shirt

Donegal Tweed Peacoat

Cloth
Which brings me finally on to S.E.H Kelly’s special relationship with cloth. One of their specialities is finding ‘outsider’ fabrics. Pea coats appear in a chunky and memorable Donegal Tweed wool, reminiscent of tweeds of old. Jumpers are made from some of the thickest wool I’ve ever seen – you won’t find a warmer material. Their ‘Tetris’ tweed (named by the guys after the blocks of the video game) gives standout to a classic sports coat. Things take a further obscure twist when you throw things like their deadstock cord into the mix salvaged from an abandoned Mill in Cottonopolis and used to great effect on their new shirting. Then come the bespoke materials they’re working on with weaver extraordinaire Daniel Harris. It’s this intrinsic connection to the fabric that sets S.E.H Kelly apart from many other brands and almost places them in a world that’s closer to Savile Row than it is to the casual menswear market. And one of the many reasons I’m going to have to start making some more space in my wardrobe.

The ‘Tetris’ tweed three button blazer

My favourite garment from this season, the reversible herringbone linen over-shirt

A final note
This isn’t fashion. These aren’t clothes to titillate the fickle and trendy. These are clothes for the wearer’s joy and fulfilment. Designed, woven and stitched together with the man in mind for whom the garment is intended; the man who appreciates quality, design, style, comfort, and the very quietly extraordinary.

“ONE WEEK COORDINATES OF DAIKI SUZUKI”

– Monday – Coat: Engineered Garments / Down Jacket: Moonstone / Pants: Used / Shoes: Alden

The March issue of Popeye Magazine landed on these shores recently and it focuses on street style snaps of ‘City Boys’ in their day-to-day gear. One such ‘City Boy’ is Engineered Garment’s Daiki Suzuki with a feature on his week in outfits. I’m always interested to see how a master of styling such as Daiki takes to actually dressing himself. There’s a couple of surprises in there; stone washed Levi’s (good), Ugg Boots (bad – not even Daiki can sway my mind on these!). I’d go Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday for my favourite looks here. Tuesday’s Truman Jacket teamed up with some sad old Dad jeans is an especially corking look. And Wednesday’s Over Parka with the adjustable skirt is a big favourite of mine. Great wardrobe inspiration…

– Tuesday – Jacket: Engineered Garments / Vest: Engineered Garments / Shirts: Used / Pants: Levi’s

– Wednesday – Jacket: Engineered Garments / Down Parka: Mont•Bell / Pants: Used / Shoes: Birkenstock

– Thursday – Jacket: Engineered Garments / Down Parka: Mont•Bell / Pants: Ralph Lauren / Shoes: Brooks Brothers

– Friday – Jacket: Engineered Garments / Shirt: Engineered Garments / Down Parka: Western Mountaineering / Pocket Square: The Journey Begins With A Single Stitch

 

 

– Saturday – Jacket: Engineered Garments / Vest: Engineered Garments / Pants: Used / Shoes: Alden

– Sunday – Jacket: Used / Shirt: Used / Pants: Engineered Garments / Shoes: UGG